Here i am on the Island of Birds, Venezuela. It's a great place to explore by kayak, as I've had my own entourage of birds everywhere I paddle. On setting out this morning, I at first thought I was alone, but then I looked behind me. There was an entire flock of boobies right over my shoulder and soaring above my head. They soar on their demon-like wings like the flying monkeys of Wizard of Oz, and move in to get a good look at me, cocking their heads to the side. They swoop in so close I've shooed some away as they get within a paddle's distance of my shoulders. Does my head (with floppy hat) look like a good landing spot maybe?

This island is a wind-swept, desolate roosting spot for hundreds of boobies. Mangroves line the shore , but barely perceptible dog trails lead along the length of the island through prickly grass and dune grass. Trash lines the windward side, and fishermen have clearly decimated the conch population: again, as on other islands, there are hills of discarded conch shells.

Along the breakers that line the horseshoe shaped reef off the east side of the long island, there's endless 3 foot deep sky blue water, spotted with coral bommies. The wind pushes away from the breakers, so you can paddle right up to them and then drift snorkel past all the bommies.

I tried a paddle out to a itty island on the open side of the north of the island. Note, I'm in a 9' piece of tupperware of a kayak, but it handled the 2 ft waves alright. I was glad to have my birdy entourage all the way there and back.

One more day here and then we head to Bonaire.